Monterico and the smallest ferry boat ever

This is Mike...
We left the Guatemalan highlands for the beaches of Monterico, on the Pacific coast. The drive was pleasant enough once we were on the Pacific slope. I cannot reiterate enough about how the steep grades combined with unimaginable vehicles became more of a hassle than it was worth. We made a decision to go to the coast and be by the ocean again. Our goal was to recharge our batteries and let the kids be kids. When we arrived in Monterico the waves were gigantic. We are talking 10 to 15 foot shore breaks with steep sand embankments. The sounds of the crashing waves was incredible and they even shook the hotel room where we stayed. We had a good time swimming in the hotel pool, but it just was not the same. We will be going on further south to see if the waves mellow out a bit.   

Elise was taking a well-timed photo of Zoe with the 10 shore breaks behind her.

The ferry boat was barely wider than our SUV. Once we took off, we were incredibly nervous about tipping over. The boat had barely 10 inches of topside clearance before taking on water. 

The Marshland and Mangrove we pass through by ferry were quite nice. The journey was at least 5 miles by boat.

A view looking down on the SUV to prove how skinny this boat was on the ride

The oncoming ferry created wakes that entered our boat. We were very scared at this point and even plotted how to abandon ship with important papers and the kids. The other ferry was much higher off the water than our ferry because of the weight differential and is probably the reason they were going fast.

Santiago de Atitlan

This is Mike...
Santiago de Atitlan is a fairly large city on the banks of the lake. There are many aspects of the Mayan culture that are fully integrated in the daily lives of the folks here. For example, there is the Maximon (pronounced Mah shee mon). This is a special statue that is set at one home for a period of a year. During that time the homeowner's take care of the statue like it is a part of the family. In fact, they usually don't work for a year to take care of the statue. Villagers come by and make offerings and drop off cash for the caretakers. After a year the statue goes to a new home. We wanted to find Maximon and pay tribute but arrived on Sunday and the city was shut down for market day. We almost got the car stuck in the narrow allies two times trying to get out. To say the town was gridlocked is a complete understatement.

Santiago de Atitlan is at the end of a bay on the lake

The view of the town from the Bamboo Inn

An early morning fisherman on a wooden boat

The water level of the lake fluctuates tremendously and is best seen by the palm in the background submerged 8 feet under water. This is probably one the reasons many of the Mayans choose to live in the hills rather than near the water.

Look anywhere and you'll probably see a volcano. I have to say the view are stunning in the highlands.

  

San Luis Toliman, lake Atitlan

This is Mike...
Lake Atitlan is such a beautiful place. The topography alone makes it so unique, even amongst other Central American lakes. The Mayans also proudly display their cultural heritage with the clothing they wear. This is what makes Guatemala such an amazing place even after accounting for the immense corruption. Lake Atitlan is ringed by several active volcanoes which can be a little unsettling when you think about it and where we are relative to the volcanoes. The roads going into Atitlan are so steep that our brakes over heated and failed. I had to pull over and let them cool off before driving further. To say we were frightened by this is an understatement. We have never seen any roads like this in any country to date.   

This is looking down from the highway above. We were higher than helicopters and it was a white knuckle drive. Elise is afraid of heights, so she was nervous for the majority of the drive. Truthfully, we were all nervous until we finally got to the bottom of the volcano in one piece.

In the morning, we noticed two volcanoes belching steam from their vents.

A local gentleman in a wood carved boat, a rare site in this fast paced world.

The coast line for lake Atitlan

The lunchtime view from our restaurant at San Luis Toliman, on lake Atitlan

Shopping Mayan Style

This is Mike..
The girls love shopping in all of the local markets. For me, I find it boring for the most part but every now and then I get a good chuckle. Tonight the girls got the full Mayan treatment at the bazaar. We had a blast and stayed for a long while. Somehow, I ended up buying a cool shirt in the process. We all played dress up and I have to say it was fun. We were given gifts, imagine that! It was quite an experience, I hope the girls remember this as it was truly unique. We all spoke broken Spanish, they with Mayan and us with English but found a way to make it work and laughed a lot.

Sierra getting the true Mayan fashion treatment from very sweet Mayan ladies

Zoe looked great in her outfit and played her Mayan of a maiden role very well

The finished product, Spectacular!

The Three Musketeers at the town fountain, in San Luis Toliman. Notice my new Mayan shirt.

Dancing in the rain

Having a blank slate can be a blessing but can be daunting as well. We can drive east or south or not at all, we are free. When I was at my office years ago, I would catch myself staring, day dreaming of something better. Now that we are here it can be tough staring into the constant newness. Also the avoidable situation Guatemala is in as a country. Corruption, from the top down, affects every aspect of life for the citizens here. Our interactions with the regular Guatemalans has been nothing but awesome and is why we are doubly upset at their government. Imagine having a lovely dinner overlooking a lake with the people you love talking about things that matter to you, oblivious to the world. Then a little boy, 8 or 9 years young, comes to the table asking for a little money. That boy had severe facial deformities and was doing what he could to make a living. We were moved to his situation but also felt guilty of how well we have it. The next morning we were strolling to the nearby bakery and saw a mother without legs trying to cross the street using a piece of carpet under her crotch to move without ruining her clothes. Of course, we were moved to help her as best any passing person can. These people and the many others we have seen are not wretches, they are people with souls like you and I. The fact the needy are left to their own devices speaks of the immense greed of the Guatemalan government. This place is not poor, it is mismanaged.
There are some things we cannot change no matter how inspired we are. As tough as it is, at times, we need to pull our boot straps up and move forward. If anything, this trip has taught us how to dance in the rain, not between the drops.          

The colorless shanty towns of poverty

At least 15, but maybe 20 people packed of this Toyota truck on the highway around lake Atitlan. 

Leaving Antigua

We left Antigua after a couple of weeks of Spanish school under our belts. We had fun in Antigua but the poor air quality left us desiring cleaner air in a big way. Our walk to school was a half of a block from our condo. The proximity of the school was very nice especially when we were running out the door back packs in hand. We were all good estudiantes and punctual "most of the time."   

We had a typical Guatemalan dish delivered to our condo for dinner. We all loved the food, I had to take a picture of it because it was a full spread of deliciousness.

We had Zoe's hair cut before leaving Antigua and regretted it.

This is us saying goodbye to our teachers. They were all very nice people, down to the bone good folks!

This is what we mean by a suicide shower. Notice the 120 volt electrical wires attached to the shower head!

Zoe got the worst hair cut ever. Notice the unevenness! We were pretty ticked off and had to re-cut her hair ourselves.  

Santo Domingo, Antigua

The aqueduct is still in use today even though many of the buildings collapsed around them during the countless earth quakes that rattled Antigua.

The breathtaking surroundings of what was once a massive monastery complex in the heart of Antigua. The complex covers several acres and was a renowned site for Catholics during its heyday  

This massive ceremonial ceramic sculpture is at least one thousand years old. We could not help but to marvel about its size and remarkable resemblance to east Asian art. The Mayan artisans were highly skilled and much more advanced than modern science acknowledges 

The view of what is left in the main cathedral. A high profile wedding was conducted prior to our arrival.

The weather here is very nice even though the air quality is not. Antigua is known for their verdant gardens and incredibly mild climate.   

We had an amazing day strolling the grounds of Santo Domingo. The traffic and world outside disappeared within the serene complex. The are a variety of reasons that make this spot such a special site. For starters there is a nice collection of ancient Mayan art from the area. Modern art is also on display giving the gallery an urban feel as well. After the art displays we visited a colonial era collection of household goods set in a reconstructed home. The whole place felt perfectly laid out from top to bottom. One of the most amazing aspects of the visit was visiting the crypts beneath the church. Since the whole complex is self guided seeing the skeletal remains alone, in a dark cavern, was chilling. The kids did amazingly well considering they were looking at human skeletons for their first time. To finish off the experience, there was an amazing restaurant and high end hotel flaking the property which made it feel like a resort. This was a great family experience and would recommend Santo Domingo to anyone.        

Market day in Antigua

This is Mike...
Market day is a big event and people from all over Antigua come down the hills to sell everything imaginable. The streets come alive with commerce under the smog filled sky. Coincidentally, we have spoken to many locals about the air quality and they insist it will get better once the rainy season begins. I guess that is one way to look at the problem, bury your head in the sand! As I am writing this post, burning stuff is filling the air around the city and making the skyline obscure. This is no way for a population to live and I feel bad for saying this about Antigua. If you read anything about Antigua, you will be left with dreamy images about a city of eternal spring, cobblestone streets, colonial ruins, etc. and not the air quality. If only I could find a way to pipe the smog through the computer to your home you would all understand what I am saying. Today, we were walking to the market and decided to turn around and drive instead. My whole family decided to drive because we were tired of the chicken bus exhaust, tired of the dog poop on the streets, tired of the tripping hazards and tired of the non pedestrian friendly drivers. Don't get me wrong, we are not burned out on Antigua, as it is still a cute place to visit. We are just realistic with Antigua's shortcomings. We are tired of the scratchy throats and burning eyes! In the end, special places like Antigua need to do more to protect what they have before they lose it.               

Indigenous people bringing their crafts for sale

The ruins in the background make for a surreal setting

Beautiful dresses and jewelry adorn the Mayan ladies

The girls shopping amongst all the vibrant colors

Once the wind blew some of the smog away we went up to the overlook to take a picture of the city. This image was not possible any other day in Antigua so far.

Near the market is a place to buy wood that is already sized for a  typical stove.

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The city is covered with large ruins which add so much charm to the city

The stupidity of some

This is Mike...
   We visited a Serpentario (reptile exhibit) where they rescue injured, abandoned or confiscated reptiles. This is an organization that assists in the eventual release of native animals provided they can fend for themselves in the wild. The only exception for release are none native species and some of the venomous snakes, where they are milked regularly for their venom. This is done so they can produce anti venom for the nearby hospitals and clinics.
   Guatemala, like the rest of the world, is suffering ecological damage from the introduction of invasive species. Some examples would include the release of Cobras, Siberian tigers, Anacondas, etc. into the wild. These, and other introductions, along with the heavy hand of man are making the wild spaces more difficult for native species.
   One of the confiscated snakes, was an extremely venomous fer-de-lance viper which was duct taped to a man's thigh, when he was boarding an airplane. No joke, boarding an airplane with a viper duct taped to his inner thigh! They also showed other examples of deadly frogs captured in film roles at the airport, and so on. I guess the stupidity of some can never be underestimated.
  

Consuela, the crocodile, was injured because people wanted to kill her for her tail meat. They shot her hind leg and hit her with a blunt object blinding her right eye, but she still managed to escape. She was found sometime later in bad shape and was brought to the rescue center where they amputated her infected hind leg. She will not be released into the wild but will be part of a breeding program the center has set up for crocodiles. 

Thankfully, this former pet, ended up here instead of the wild.

Honey, is that you? Donations keep these awesome places alive and we recommend visiting shelters like this as part of any vacation.

We were at this exhibit with our Spanish instructors and Elise said, in Spanish, "Tengo mierda de serpientes." Everyone busted out in laughter as she said, "I have Sh** of snakes." She meant to say, "Tengo Miedo de serpientes." Which means I have fear of snakes. Let nobody think it only happened to Elise. A few days prior, I was riding on the back of my teacher's motorcycle as I had to go to the ATM to pay for class. We got stuck in traffic and the sun was blaring on us. As I was holding on his love handles while he was driving I yelled, "Estoy claliente!" I thought  I was saying, "I am warm." The correct phrase should have been, "Tengo color." What I yelled to him on the back of his motorcycle was "I am h*rny." Afterwards, he told me what I said at a coffee shop and we both laughed. The joys of learning a new language are many.

Spanish Classes etc.

Some of the Spanish students put on a play about Mayan deities that was quite entertaining.

After the play, the place got groovy, the DJ played great music and everyone started to dance

The kids spotted a Burro on the way home from school and decided to hang out a bit. Sierra and Zoe really like their new friends from North Carolina. They are extra happy we are all staying at the same place, right around the corner from the school.

One can catch a funky horse drawn carriage ride in downtown Antigua

Another prominent cathedral in Parque Central

Children taking a shortcut through Parque Central on their way home from school

Typical Spanish colonial building for the area, it has been the same for hundreds of years

Getting settled

This is Mike...
Antigua is a UNESCO world heritage site, and it is easy to see why. The old buildings, with the charm of yesteryear, are everywhere and in fairly good condition. Something rare in Latin America, is this place has strict building ordinances to preserve the charm. The cobblestone streets add a certain sophistication especially when you see the very well dressed locals in suits, business skirts, etc. hurrying to their businesses. Antigua is bustling with worldly goods, like imported cheeses, wines, Sushi restaurants etc. This, is the easy stuff to see, as it is pleasing to the eye. Less easy to see, or at least stomach, is the poverty here. I took a picture of a man passed out on the sidewalk, in what appeared to be his wife's lap, while walking home from the market today. I immediately felt so bad for taking the picture that I deleted it. I thought about the biblical saying, "There too but for the grace of God go I." We are all so lucky. Each and everyone of you reading this blog, have made it. You might be frustrated at times about this or that, but you made it. I thought about the love and devotion of this wife, for holding her man in sickness and in health, for better or worse, on that sidewalk. As much as Antigua can be easy on the eyes it can be hard on the soul. The disparity is extreme, and I am sure this will unveil itself further as the days go on.
Another thing the pictures cannot show you is the constant smell of burning debris. To date, every place we have been in central America has smelled of burning grass, trash, wood, etc. To be sure, there are valid reasons why they burn things here. They burn grasses to clean out pastures before the rainy season, to give the new grass a chance. They burn wood to cook and also burn the chopped debris in the forests to clear it. They burn trash because nobody picks it up and it needs to go. There are a variety of reasons why they burn things here, and for whatever the reason, the air is thick. Combine the constant burning with no emission controls for cars and trucks and you have a noxious cocktail that people are forced to breathe daily.
Still, with all of this, I have to say, the positives outweigh the negatives. We are planning to stay here for about a month or so and visit Lake Atitlan at some point. We are all enrolled in Spanish school, which is quite fun getting us all ready for school in the morning. The kids love the semi role reversal, watching mom and dad rush out the door with them, backpacks in hand. All I can say is, God Bless coffee :) 

The world famous chicken buses of Guatemala

I guess they found a creative way to reuse glass bottles. Considering this is only 5 feet off the ground, it could actually injure a completely innocent person as well.

The streets have a lot of charm, even when you are off the beaten tourist path like us.

The Arch of Antigua is a popular site to visit. There are not a lot of tourists around at the moment but the city is well equipped to handle lots of people.

The pastel colored buildings are everywhere and give this place a grand colonial charm

The Central Park area of Antigua is a beautiful place to hang out. On Sundays, the indigenous people come in from the mountains to sell their wares. We were here last Sunday to see the festivities but my camera was dead. 

A typical display of salsas from the areas. We had to take this photo as the plate looked so appetizing. The salsas were very delicious and the green one lived on to its name picantito. 

This cathedral was destroyed by an earth quake and is now a museum of ruins. There are many ruins in and around Antigua, serving as a reminder of the volcanoe's presence and strength.  

Men do stupid things all around the world. Can you see the guy laying down at the top of this pile? Just for clarification, we were driving 50 miles an hour here, just outside Guatemala City.

We have seen so many overturned semi trucks that nobody would believe us if we said that we saw at least one everyday of driving.

Elise and the kids, walking around Mayan ladies on the street. We were told you can identify the women's status and even village, by the colors, length and designs of their dresses. We have not been able to identify this yet, but do admire the beauty and pride the dresses represent.