Back to Argentina

This is Mike...
Elise and the girls are safely back home so I drove through central Argentina, crossing their version of our Midwest. Ag land everywhere, wheat, corn, cows, you name it Central Argentina has it. After two and a half long days of driving I crossed the Agricultural belt with lots of bugs on the windshield, a nail in the tire, I still made it in one piece. It was raining so hard in San Luis, where I stayed for the night, I thought the town was going to wash away. The thunder and lightening of the evening were amazing and punctuated already deep sadness I was feeling after seeing my girls fly off in the magnificent sunshine of Chile. It wasn't all bad though, as I received a call from my wife and kids saying they are having a wonderful time with the neighbors, of whom, were very happy to see them again.
   It's just not the same seeing the sights without the kids eyes glowing and my wife's subtle smile. I know it will get easier, but for now, instead of 4 souls 1 dream it feels more like one hairy dude in a truck. I am looking forward to seeing new things though. It will get easier and after I sell the truck I can go home and see what the future will bring. I am so blessed to have a family that wants to be with me, wants to do things with me. I know the teenage years are coming and I will eventually be as popular as the plague but until then I am enjoying this without end.

The colors of the Andes are amazing.

The snow capped mountains from the Argentine side of the Andes

Protesters closed down the highway near Mendoza which is always appreciated by the commuters.

The rain filled the streets in San Luis.

Wide open spaces and agricultural land for 1,000 kilometers.

Ranch land was abundant in Argentina.

The grounds were soggy wetlands the closer to Buenos Aires I drove.

     

Blue Dollars and the nonsense of it all

This is Mike...
For those unfamiliar with "Blue Dollars", it is an unofficial exchange rate for dollars in Argentina and is much higher than the official exchange rate. Prior to visiting Argentina we stocked up on a couple thousand US dollars in Peru so we could take advantage of this exchange rate. Essentially, Argentina has been struggling economically since they defaulted on their debt in 2001. In an effort to control inflation the government instituted measures curbing imports through taxation or outright bans. The net effect of their government's mismanagement has meant very difficult times for the regular people. Sadly, we saw long lines at consumer lending companies as people are borrowing on credit to eek by. In one mall, near Salta, half of the stores were "Money stores" offering credit or short term financing and each of them had lines out the door.
   For those of us lucky enough to use "Blue Dollars" the exchange rate is roughly 15 Pesos to the dollar. The official exchange rate is 9 pesos to the dollar. If you charge anything on your credit card or go to an ATM while in Argentina you are losing 40% on each transaction. As a tourist, it is preferable to bring dollars and exchange them on the "Street" - I will come back to that later. This bazaar system enables those fortunate enough to obtain US dollars 40% off on anything in Argentina.
    The import restrictions and/or taxes are making the everyday products more expensive. For example, the caretaker at the lodge where we were staying was complaining that the same large flat screen TV in Chile costs about 7,000 Argentinian pesos compared to 30,000 pesos in Argentina. Unfortunately, there are far too many examples to share regarding this, the people are really struggling in Argentina.
   If you are planning on visiting Argentina plan on bringing crisp and clean (no imperfections) $100 bills from the US. As we found out the hard way, the Argentinian "Blue Dollar" buyers like clean Hundies and give you the best exchange rates. We had a boat load of 20s which meant we had to fight for the best exchange rates. Our exchange rates varied from 13.5 to 15 pesos to the dollar, still better than charging anything on our credit card or withdrawing from an ATM.
   I exchanged dollars in pharmacies, stores, ice cream parlors, and in a home by asking locals who freely give you info on how to do it. I even asked a weirdo looking clown dressed like a hatchet murderer, in Maipu, if he knew where I could get "Blue Dollars". There is nothing quite as exhilarating as walking up to a perfect stranger, in a foreign country, with your pockets stuffed with money, looking shiftily from side to side and asking, "Hey, you know where I can do an all cash transaction?"
   Needless to say we are happy to be in Chile where we can act as we do at home. No gimmicks, no hoops just good ole fair prices for all. What a concept!
   
   
                         

Maipu and wine culture

This is Mike...
Wine culture is either in you or it isn't. For us, it is within us big time. We went to the large city of Mendoza ate lunch and decided to stay for 3 nights in the quiet area of Maipu. The choice was a good one and the girls experienced wineries and olive production first hand. The slow paced midday relaxation was just what the doctor ordered. In Argentina, most places are closed during midday so we appreciated how the wineries here stayed open for the tourists, most of whom are used to a different schedule. The weather was a mixed bag and one night there was a tempest of a storm and in the morning there was big snow storm in the mountains which provided a photogenic backdrop to the vineyards. For those of you considering visiting Mendoza, it is a metropolis whereas Maipu is only 16 kilometers away and is a small town. Don't feel pressured on where to stay, you can decide which is best for you when you arrive.  

Grape vines growing up the side of the church was quite a sight.

Vineyards everywhere.

The snow was amazing when we woke up in the morning.

The wine barrel pose.

The girls making fun of "gross wine" in the main lobby of a winery.

Zoe showing her "Street side" was quite a hit at the elegant tasting.

The all important wine tasting.

Places for relaxing abound in Maipu.

Sierra enjoyed a Tempura style chicken with a delicious salad.

Zoe is not just a tree hugger, she is a tree kisser.

Maipu square is a well manicured place to hang out and every bit as beautiful as Napa or Sonoma.

A spectacular lunch overlooking vineyards and olive groves, can it get any better?

Sierra enjoyed the manicured beauty of the grounds.

The olive trees here were massive and proven producers.

The olive producing area was very nice.

Olive tasting was as elegant as wine tasting.

Big olive trees.

The champions of travel

This is Mike...
We have met amazing people on the journey and find it fitting to give them credit for their achievements even though they are humble about their accomplishments. Some stand outs are a French family on the road for 4 years in a RV and the bicyclists riding from Alaska to the tip on Argentina. These people are amazing and what inspire the novices like us to pursue bigger adventures.

The two people on the right have been bicycling for nearly two years down the Pan Am highway. The guy on the far right is also the chap who helped me set up the tent on our first night.

The coolest French people, traveling with their kids for FOUR YEARS in the Americas. How cool is this?

   

Ruins of Quilmes

This is Mike...
We finally got decent internet and can properly update the blog. For whatever reason we have had really really bad internet in Argentina as a result a few of the recent posts were haphazardly put together with limited explanation etc. Also, this post, the ruins of Quilmes is out of sinc, and should just after the Cafayate post.
   The ruins of Quilmes are the largest pre-colombian ruins in Argentina and as such are an important site for the country to maintain. The area itself is very similar to Tucson and as fate would have it, we met people from Tucson at this site who own several wineries in the area. The drive out here is easy and only 5K off the main highway. This place is very picturesque and peaceful, we give it a must see if you are in the area.

The beauty of a 20 foot tall cactus.

These walls are over 1500 yeas old.

A small settlement of about 5000 people lived here.

The peoples here made an arid area green with water diversion.

Some of the rocks had more significance than others like these entrance rocks.

The original artwork on the rock walls.

A prayer rock mound.

The settlement is a still only sparsely visited and very peaceful.

The indigenous peoples were amazing craftsman in their environments.

   

Highway 76 and the national parks

This is Mike...
If you are in the area, highway 76 and the national parks are a must to visit. The drive is spectacular but long and if you are camping it is an easy place to visit.

Chilecito - the overnight stop

This is Mike...
 Driving to Chilecito was easy enough, but long, some of the views were nice but in the end it was a stop on the road. Some people go to the ghost town and mine canals of La Mexicana but we chose not to as it would have been an eleven hour tour with elementary aged kids - a definite NO GO.  

"El Dragon Del Amor" was on the back of this beat up car. I want to get this quote on a shirt :) 

Spring in the air.

The backyard of the place we stayed at.

Like Tucson but a tad bit greener.

Because of the siesta gas lines are common in Argentina.

Credit agencies are having a field day in Argentina, because goods are getting more expensive people need credit to buy staples. This is sad truly sad to see, so many people need credit to live.

The mountains around the desert were filled with snow.